This year, many of us will be able to enjoy Thanksgiving with family and friends from afar However, many of us, especially those with young children, may opt for a smaller affair that does not include extensive travel. Growing up in the Midwest, Thanksgiving and Christmas were always the same in our house: Turkey, two types of cranberries (traditional and a raw cranberry relish my mother grinded by hand), green bean casserole, mashed potatoes, Pepperidge Farm stuffing, Parker House rolls, sweet potato casserole with pecans, brown sugar, and coconut, a relish tray, and homemade pumpkin pie. So many memories were made around the Thanksgiving table and I will always remember this special set menu.
Since leaving home, I’ve had many different Thanksgiving experiences, ranging from a homemade Thanksgiving in Florence, Italy with four girlfriends huddled around the tiniest stove I’ve ever seen, to dinners in our small apartment in San Francisco, and cooking Thanksgiving dinner for hundreds of fellow students while studying at the Culinary Institute of America in New York.
I’ve also experimented with a variety of twists on the classics – cranberries with Gran Marnier, oyster and sausage cornbread stuffing, deep fried and spatchcocked turkey, and green beans with shallot bacon vinaigrette. For years spent with my husband’s family, we’ve created epic cheese trays and always have carrot cake for dessert.
Over the years, we have settled on our family’s version of Thanksgiving. This year, we won’t be traveling and anticipate a smaller gathering. I also want to make things as easy as possible while providing a good amount of variety. If you’re planning a Thanksgiving that will be a bit different than “normal,” consider this an opportunity to branch out and try some new things. For some, perhaps that’s supporting a local restaurant and ordering the whole dinner, for others, maybe it’s a potluck with close friends and family where you just have to bring one dish. If you are planning on doing any cooking, consider these ideas for something that may be just a bit different, and of course delicious.
Back to Roots
The key to almost all of my vegetables is quite simple. Extra virgin olive oil, kosher salt, and fresh ground black pepper. Oh, and an oven. Roasting vegetables – pretty much any kind – is one of the best ways to bring out the natural sugars in veggies and adds an amazing depth of flavor. I usually spend time peeling and chopping various squashes and root veggies, however, you can easily find these pre-peeled and chopped at a variety of grocery stores.
The Method
However you get your veggies peeled and chopped, add them to a sheet tray, but make sure not to overcrowd them – use two trays if needed. Liberally drizzle with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Roast for about 25-30 minutes at 400 degrees. Make sure to check them frequently and turn them throughout. These can be made ahead of time and reheated right before the meal.
Modern Relish Tray
Google “relish tray” and you’ll find lots of retro versions of this mid-century staple. As an 80’s child this was something my grandparents always had and I love keeping the tradition alive. We had a pretty simple one growing up – celery sticks, olives, and sweet pickles. The celery was always a nice way to refresh your palette in between all of the heavy Midwestern fare. As an adult, I’ve developed a new appreciation for the relish tray, and find it’s a fantastic way to keep kids engaged while dinner is being prepared. It’s also a great way to experiment with new flavors. Think pickled veggies, long sliced carrots, crunchy jicama, celery, cucumbers, and pickles. For grown-ups, Cheese Plus on Polk St. in Russian Hill makes the most delicious herb- and goat cheese-stuffed peppadew peppers, along with an assortment of specialty olives. Of course you can always add some specialty meats and more cheeses - our favorites include St. Agur blue - a creamy French cows milk blue, Humboldt Fog - goat cheese with a layer of vegetable ash, and any aged Gouda or triple cream from France.
Creamed Spinach
As I was preparing this post, I asked my husband “what’s your favorite thing I make for Thanksgiving?” He instantly replied “creamed spinach.” I don’t know when or how this beloved steakhouse side dish made its way onto our Thanksgiving menu, but it’s a crowd-pleaser. It’s super easy to make and you can prepare it a day or two prior and reheat in the oven.
Ingredients:
1 shallot, minced
1 garlic clove, minced
1 Tbsp butter
1 lb. spinach – ideally baby spinach, or stems trimmed
1 pint heavy cream
Kosher salt, to taste
Fresh ground black pepper, to taste
Fresh nutmeg, grated, to taste
Your favorite grated cheese (optional)
Directions:
Sauté shallots and garlic in butter in a pan until soft, and reserve. Meanwhile, boil a pot of water and add in spinach until just wilted. Drain spinach in a colander. Press spinach until the majority of the water has been removed. This is the most tedious step – but can be fun to engage children to help squeeze and push out the water.
Chop spinach very finely, reserve.
In a small pan, add the heavy cream and boil until reduced by half. Season with salt and pepper to taste and add in as much nutmeg as you like (we like a lot). Stir in spinach, shallots and garlic and bake in a shallow oven-safe dish for about 25 minutes at 350 degrees. We don’t add cheese, but you certainly can top it with your favorite grated hard cheese.
Celeriac Puree
If you’ve never tried celeriac also known as celery root, now could be a great time to try something new. As an alternative to mashed potatoes, celery root has a wonderfully delicious, slightly sweet, celery-like, nutty flavor. I once made these for my Midwestern father, who said they were the best “mashed potatoes” he ever had.
The Method
The peeling is the most difficult part in this dish as celery root is very knobby, but once you get over that, they are very straight forward. Sizes can range greatly, so for 6 people, plan on getting 2 celery roots or about 2 1/2 pounds.
Peel and chop into large pieces, cover with water and boil until tender. Drain and add into a stand mixer with your favorite liquid (milk, milk-alternatives like coconut milk would be quite nice, or stock). Season with salt and pepper to taste.
Apple Goodie with Dulce De Leche
Creating your own special names and variations make the best food memories for your family.
My mom would often throw this together after dinner during the weekdays especially in the fall. She called it Apple Goodie because it’s so good - but it’s basically a crumble. After cooling, she served it with cold milk poured right on top. For something a little extra special, try topping it with dulce de leche.
Ingredients:
1 cup flour
1 stick of cold butter, cubed
1/2 cup of brown sugar
½ teaspoon cinnamon
4-5 apples, peeled and sliced
1 can sweetened condensed milk
Directions:
With a pastry cutter or fork, cut the butter, flour, sugar and cinnamon together. It’s okay for it to look clumpy. Pour over sliced apples in a dish and bake at 350 degrees for about 25 minutes.
You can purchase a beautiful jar of premade dulce de leche for $8-10, or you can buy a can of sweetened condensed milk, boil the entire unopened can for about 3 hours, and have the exact same product. Make sure to add water to the pot throughout the process, as it will evaporate. Allow the can to cool before opening it. Pour over the crumble after it’s cooled, and refrigerate to save for later.
Wherever you’re enjoying Thanksgiving this year remember to keep it simple and involve your kids as much as possible.